On the back of a building I find a portrait of the Ayatollah Khomeini. An impulsive act has removed his eyes.
Free expression lives safe from prying eyes in Iran, a country where conflicts hit immediately straight in the eyes.
A nation that remains suspended - and contested - between East and West, tradition and attempts of openness towards new cultures.
The Iranian thousand-year history, which already in the sixth century BC gave birth to the "first charter of human rights", is often in contrast with the current persecutions of dissent and religious and ethnic minorities.
Light in Iran is dazzling, as if it wanted to highlight the boundaries not to be crossed, boundaries well known to everybody but constantly pointed out by the obsessive propaganda of the Islamic Republic.